South American Wanderer

So after 3 solid days of travelling I have finally arrived in La Paz, Bolivia!

It's gorgeous. So unlike anything or anywhere I have ever been before. After battling with altitude sickness, jet lag and discovering the limitations of my español, I set off on a free guided walking tour that traversed 3km of the city. Combine this with the fact that La Paz is 3,660 meters above sea level, it made for a tiring day. But so interesting. La Paz is unoficially divided into two areas, the Indigenous and the Spanish. In the Indigenous side we wound our way through cobblestone streets, insane drivers in ancient looking buses who seem adament to score their 10 points by hitting civillians (miracusously this somehow manages not to happen) and women from hilltribes in traditional dress including the brilliant bowler hats, to discover the streets of La Paz. We started by the Carcel de San Pedro prison which not only houses inmates but their families too. Apparently in Bolivia the justice system works off the belief that you are guilty until proven innocent. Hence the cramming of 2,5000 people into a space designated for 400. Also, apparently the rumors of foreigners illegally entering the prison and leaving with cocaine is also true although it is not as lax as it used to be and the police won't help you if the inmates decide they dont like you. 

  After promising myself no sneaking into prisons to taste crack cocaine, we made our way to the witch markets. Probably the best sort of markets I've ever seen. Colorful fabric was everywhere, the sweet smell of coca leaves and tea drenched the market and its inhabitants, along with drums pounding in the background. It was incredible, right down the llama fetuses. Yep, see below picture. Apparently llama fetuses are used in house building rituals to bring prosperity and visitors. More wealthier residents might also use an adult llama and the really rich use a human body. Apparently, this poor victim is often a drunk, who has been purposely inebriated and kidnapped for this purpose. Our guides explained that whilst they haven't personally seen this it is a well-believed rumor so who knows? 

  After finally dragging ourselves away from the markets we headed into the Spanish quarters via the San Francisco church, which gave a very interesting glimpse into Bolivian mind/spirit/7 souls who can escape at anytime duality.  Amazing colonial archetitecture exists here, although apparently totally impractical as the Spanish keep every aspect of the house true to its original design, right down to the house´s weather capabilities which is designed on the warm Spanish coast, not freezing La Paz (in saying that I got sunburnt, wtf). Although the centre of the Spanish side, the Plaza Murillo, has been renovated one building has been left with its bullet-riddled facade to commentate those who died in numerous riots that took place. Apparently a few months ago another riot was ripening based on the comments from President Evo Morales on hearing about the under population in Bolivia. Something to the effect of 'we are going to solve this by taxing condoms and also women who are of child-bearing age but have not born children' and 'pollo (chicken) creates gays'. After seeing the response he quickly apologised (take note Tony Abbott). 

  Anyway, to finish of a close to perfect day (just bring me some beer and loved ones please), I survived my first attempted passport/bank card scam. A lady came up to me when I was wandering the streets by myself and asked for directions. I immediately thought it was a bit odd as obviously I'm not local and she informed me that she was a tourist from Santiago, so would obviously have fluent Spanish yet chose to ask the gringa for directions. Almost immediately a very slick looking man joined us asking if we needed directions. Suss faux-tourist said that we were both tourists and the man then pulls out an identification card that says he is the police and asks to check our passports. She immediately complies and pulls out her passport and they both indicate I should too. So thanks to some light Lonely Planet reading at 4am due to jet lag that warns tourists that faux-policemen would then declare my passport illegal, demand I come to the police station with him, bundle me into a car and then take me to an isolated ATM to steal my hard-earned Happy Wife dollars, I reply 'No lo siento, yo necessita ir' and saunter off. I later look back to see them slinking off together. Pfft as if a real cop would let you run off like that with that much attitude (I didnt mean to have an attitude, i´m not that much of a smartass but I am quite certain my español is still fairly sing-songy). 

  Anyway, I survived with passport and bank card intact and had a brilliant day in La Paz. And my new found German friend wants to get a beer so aidos amigos! 

  Love xo